Back in Georgia

Overnight stops (in date order): Alaverdi (x4); Gori; Vardzia

Armenia was as far east as we could get.  On our previous trip, our plan to get into central Asia and beyond were thwarted by the pandemic.  On this occasion it was war and politics.  The land border with Azerbaijan (the direct route to the Caspian Sea) remains closed and neither of the two alternative routes – through Russia or Iran – were that appealing.  So, we had to turn round.

Back in Georgia, our first stop was at a truck wash to give the vehicle its first bath in six months.

We camped a night next to a vineyard

Before checking in for a second stay at a new hotel right next to the Alaverdi Monastery.

The manager organised a tour of the Monastery’s own winery

that ferments its grapes in the traditional Georgian manner in large clay vessels (Qvevris)

buried in the ground.  Excavations at the Monastery uncovered Qvevris dating back to the foundation of the Monastery in the 10^th Century

and wine has been produced in the cellar that contains the current qvevris

for at least a thousand years (this photo is of the same room after it was excavated).

The nearby Cemri Monastery

Has a few frescoes that survived Ottoman and Soviet occupation.

We spent our last night in Georgia camped on a hill

(did you spot us?).

overlooking the extraordinary Vardzia cave monastery complex – founded in the 12^th Century.

The next day, we joined the line of trucks on the truly terrible road

to the remote border with Turkey on Lake Aktaş.

Danielle’s reflections on our second visit.  Georgia is like the flowers that close during the night to re-open the next day.