Overnight Stops (in date order): Jinghong Botanic Gardens; Tong Xin; Mojiang (x2); Dali (x2); Lijiang (x2); Lugu Lake; Xichang; Leshan; Chengdu (x2); Huang Guang; Xian (x3); Niu Jia Valley; Pingyao; Hanging Temple; Yang Quan; Beijing (x4)
We spent our last night in Laos camped behind the Customs house at the border at Boten. On the morning of 8th May we did the easy part and passed through the Laos border. On the Chinese side we met Sophie (a name she adopts for ease of use by westerners) from Tibet who was to be our guide (and leader) for the next 25 days
and Sandra, Christian – a Swiss couple – and their Landrover, who would be our travel companions.
The Chinese authorities discourage foreign vehicles from entering the country and the process for doing so is complex. The stages are:
1. quarantine (truck sprayed with disinfectant);
2. security (police search vehicle for drugs and weapons);
3. immigration (a minute inspection of our passports and visas);
4. customs (a check for contraband);
5. drive to the vehicle licensing centre at Jinghong
where;
6. the vehicle is inspected (with an emphasis on the brakes);
7. a Chinese registration plate is issued;
and;
8. I am awarded a Chinese driving licence.
Luckily we only saw the surface of the mountain of paperwork involved in getting this far (including separate permissions to enter every province that we would travel through) which had had been prepared in advance by Sophie’s agency. Miraculously (and thanks to Sophie’s prior preparation), we completed the formalities in a single day and were able to drive to camp at the Botanic Gardens near Jinghong.
In our first few days we learnt much (the hard way, unfortunately) about how China works. On day 2, the truck’s engine gave up on the motorway.
We limped into Mojiang, which sits on the tropic of Cancer,
where Fang, a local garage owner,
and his team of mechanics
set to work. We had our first experience of Chinese hospitality. Fang (or rather his wife, Wong, who made it clear that she knew more about engines than did any of the mechanics)
fed us (twice),
and Fang and his friends found us accommodation and ferried us around; giving us our first look at life in small-town China.
The problem was finally located to a failed component in the fuel injection pump. A new part was sent from Kunming and fitted the next day.
We were back on the road – but not for long. The truck was grazed by an overtaking vehicle on the Freeway. The damage to the truck was purely cosmetic;
the other vehicle was a little worse off. The traffic police arrived quickly; and calmly and politely mediated negotiations about who was responsible. It was finally settled at 50:50 which, given that neither party was happy with the decision, was probably about right.
The long drive north through Yunnan province took us along fertile valleys – where, being Spring,
rice seedlings were being planted –
over mountain passes,
past lakes
and through villages populated by some of the many ethnic groups that make up China’s population.
We spent some time in the ancient towns of Dali
and Lijiang.
The latter is famous as the starting point of the trail that exported Yunnan tea, to Tibet India and beyond (and the ancient and solemn tea ceremony),
and for its proximity to Yulong Xueshan (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain)
which, to anoraks, is the most southerly mountain in the the northern hemisphere to have permanent glaciers. Far from being the first to scale the snowy peak,
the ticket counter at the turnstile logged me as the 2,874th person that morning to reach 4,600 metres by cable car
and staircase.
However the view was wonderful and on the way we saw our first yak.
The Chinese people were often as curious about us as we were about them (and invariably friendly and hospitable); chance encounters were one of the highlights of the journey. Tsang thrust a cigarette at me the minute I stepped out of the truck in his town and was not going to take no for an answer.
At Leshan, while visiting the Grand Buddha (at 71 metres the world’s tallest sitting Buddha),
we met a group of tourists from Tibet
who, we were assured, were wearing their everyday clothes.
At Chengdu we spent an evening at the opera
and visited the Panda Breeding Centre;
which also houses Red Pandas.
Xian is the birthplace of imperial China – though the area’s history of civilisation dates back much further (this pot is 10,000 years old) –
and today is most famous for the tomb of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of a united China, with its ‘Terracotta Army’.
The city also has plenty of good, cheap restaurants in its Muslim Quarter.
Pingyao is one of China’s least touched old towns – the Chinese tourist board has not yet got round to turning it into a theme park! Its ancient buildings
are surrounded by thirteenth century walls.
The ‘Hanging Temple’ near Datong, which serves Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian worshippers, was built in the fifth century;
at about the same time that work began on cutting out the first of the nearby 252 Yungang Grottoes with their thousands of images of Buddha.
The day we arrived at Bejing illustrated well the contrasts and inequalities within China. The morning scene in the field where we camped could have been from the middle ages
Our first shopping trip that same afternoon could have been in New York.
We crammed as much as possible into our two days sightseeing in Beijing (we set aside the third day to prepare for the next leg of the journey). We could not miss Tianamen Square
and Mao’s mausoleum.
which means that, having already visited Lenin and Ho Chi Minh, I only have to travel to North Korea to view Kim Il Sung to complete the grand slam of embalmed communist greats!.
The Forbidden City, though not the exclusive haven it was when uninvited intruders were summarily executed,
is impressively large.
We spent our second day on the Great Wall at Mutianyu
where the Wall follows the high ridges
as it snakes
(I almost trod on this one) through the mountainous country.
During our 25 days travelling south to north through China, we drove more than 7,000km and, when not in towns, left the road to camp in the countryside.
Responses
Andrée says: Les photos sont superbes. Si vous passez par la muraille de Chine, est-ce possible de prendre une photo pour moi. J’aime bien les photos des dames dans les rizières. Félicitations à notre bon photographe, Paul.
Paul says: Your photo’s and reports just get better and better, although remembering our hike through the snow in Andalucia I’m surprised you didn’t climb Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. I’ve decided that if I outlive mother, thus becoming an orphan, you can adopt me and take me on a trip. Something for you to look forward to…bon voyage et laissez les bons temps rouler.
Sharon Larsmon says: Fank God for Fang and Wong eh ? Must have been a hairy few days ! China’s nothing like I imagined – it looks enchanting, and I luv the hats. How’s the stomach holding up ?
Simon McIlroy says: Your photos are showing us the real China! What a great experience of travelling where few tourists go or are permitted to go. I expect you are looking forward to a nice bag of fish and chips after all the rice you must be eating. Safe onward journey.
Tante Lorraine says: Bonjour à vous deux, Je suis présentement à Magog avec Robert et nous sommes émerveillés par la beauté des photos….Merci de nous faire voyager avec vous. Have a nice day and take good care of you. We love you…..XOXO