Cambodia

Overnight stops (in date order):Siem Reap (x5); Kbal Spean; Prasat Preah Vihear; 100km north of Kampong Thom; Sambor Prei Kuk; Kampong Cham (x2); Phnom Penh (x7); Kampot; Kep; Ream National Park (x2); Kirirom National Park; 100km west of Krakor; 60km east of Battambang; Siem Reap (x4); Kampong Cham; Kratie.20130312-134731.jpg

After crossing the border (where we were fined for overstaying our Thai visa by one day) we drove directly to Siem Reap for five nights in a good hotel.

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We were glad to see the back of the truck for a few days.

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The hotel made a tuk-tuk and driver (Mr Bross) available throughout our stay.

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Other than time around the pool, eating good Khmer food and enjoying the hotel’s air conditioning (although this is the cool season, daily temperatures were mid-thirties and above) we spent most of our time visiting the extraordinary Angkor temples and palaces – fulfilling an ambition I (Paul) have had for decades.

Angkor Wat, constructed in the 12th Century, is the largest religious structure in the world and an impressive sight from any angle.

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However, Angkor Wat is just one of dozens of temples in the area. Bayon is famous for its many carved faces,

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Ta Prohm for the tree roots that embrace the stones
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and Mebon for its carved elephants.

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Despite centuries of decay and decades of looting, free-standing statues litter the site

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and bas-relief sculptures still cover many of the walls and lintels.

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Some of the finest bas-reliefs are at Banteay Srei, 80km north of Siem Reap.

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At Kbal Spean the carvings are on rocks in a riverbed.

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Prasat Preah Vihear is a temple

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on a hilltop

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in an area that both Cambodia and Thailand claim as their territory (thanks to ambiguity in the map drawn by the French colonisers as to the precise location of the border). Although the UN has ruled in Cambodia’s favour, there were hostilities here as recently as 2011 and the Cambodians are taking no chances.

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Sambor Prei Kuk is an atmospheric, pre-Ankorean (6th-8th Century AD) site

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comprising several hundred temple towers.

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Many of the towers were destroyed in 1973 when the US dropped 300 bombs in the area – the bomb craters are still visible; others are in the grip of the forest.

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Those that survive hint at the sophistication of the society that built them.

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Because of its tragic recent history, Cambodia is a poorer country than Thailand. Towns are dusty and undeveloped – but always with shopping opportunities.

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Villages in some regions do not yet have electricity

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and houses are basic;

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although sometimes stylish.

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The food is just as interesting as in the rest of south-east Asia

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and sometimes even more so!

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We next drove south to the capital, Phnom Penh for another week of luxury in a good hotel. We spent one evening at the theatre

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as the only paying members of the audience. The company were children and teenagers, many orphans, who were studying traditional Kmer ballet.

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After the performance I was able to pass on some helpful advice about the finer points of correct hand positioning in Apsara dance.

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Phnom Penh has limited tourist attractions. There is the Art Deco central market20130221-172102.jpg

and a Royal Palace,

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that pales in comparison with its counterpart in Bangkok.

The recent history of Cambodia is dark and tragic. Nowhere is this more evident than at Tuol Sleng, a school that was turned into a security prison by the Khmer Rouge.

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Only seven of the 30,000 men, women and children detained, interrogated and tortured there survived. The rest were transported 15km to Choueng Ek, one of Cambodia’s many ‘killing fields’, executed and buried in pits.

After checking out of our hotel,

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we made our way through the bustling streets of Phnom Penh

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and drove south to Kampot; a sleepy town on the river

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(the bridge has a patched appearance because part of it was blown up by the Khmer Rouge) whose heyday was during the time it was controlled by the French.

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However the town is now undoubtedly Cambodian.

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We visited a cave temple with a sixth Century shrine

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on the way to Kep; a village by the sea

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famous for its fried crab with Kampot pepper.

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The Ream National Park comprises a peninsula of Mangroves and beaches with small, isolated communities that fish, catch crabs and collect oysters.

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At Kampong Chhang and Kampong Luong we visited two floating villages.

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At the first

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we were rowed by a villager.

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These are complete communities

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with shops,

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street vendors,

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workshops and service stations,

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a health centre,

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temples and churches

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and schools

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(we visited the school just after lunch – the quietest time of the day!).

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At Kampong Kluang we met a bunch of guys who were dirt-biking across Cambodia.

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The day we visited Battambang, a major city in French colonial times,

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we saw the sun rise

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and set

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over the rice fields.

We returned to Siem Reap for a last fix of the Angkor temples,

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a meeting with Hun (a Buddhist monk who had been teaching in a school for children from poor families for four years)

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and a class in Khmer cuisine.

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Cambodia is a rural country with just a few, primitive industries (here a brick kiln).

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We shared the roads with some wonderful forms of transport, some motorised

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and some not.

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Two wheels are commoner than four.

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The moped is the archetypal Khmer vehicle and has more uses than might be imagined. Obviously, it is a people carrier – for two

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three,

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or four

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(we saw, but didn’t photograph, five and have an account of six from a reliable witness),

and a transporter of livestock

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– there are two approaches to carrying fully grown, live pigs.

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The unanswered question, however, is just how much can a Cambodian convey with a small, motorcycle – is it this much?

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Or perhaps this much?

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Or, is it this much!?

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From Siem Reap we drove east again and then followed the Mekong River north to the border with Laos. On the way we stopped at Kratie to see the rare, (and impossible to photograph!) freshwater dolphins.

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Responses

Andrée says: Very beautiful pictures!

Sharon Larsmon says: Very glad to see you’re both still alive !! I think I’m 3-1 up on emails. Do the stunning temples tempt you into spiritual investigation?

Georges et Chantal says: Nous sommes contents de visiter votre blog. Nous retrouvons la plupart des lieux que nous avons visité en même temps que vous. N’avez-vous pas eu le temps de visiter les villages de pêcheurs ? Avez-vous réussi à vous débarrasser de la poussière de la route nationale 6? Nous espérons vous voir très bientôt pour discuter ensemble. Georges et Chantal

Georges et Chantal says: Nous venons d’arriver à Bangkok. Où êtes vous maintenant ? Toujours au Cambodge ? Il semblerait que nos amis suisses vous aient aperçu à Sihanoukville. Nous ne nous sommes pas arrêtés à Kampot mais avons séjourné à Kep que nous avons bien aimé, surtout, le marché aux crabes. Georges a retrouvé avec plaisir les bonnes routes de Thaïlande. Nous espérons de vos nouvelles. Georges et Chantal

Simon McIlroy says: Even more extraordinary pictures of life, past and present It is difficult to know what was really achieved by the turmoil of the last few decades. I suppose every country has to experience a civil war, or two. I recall a Chinese politician being asked, some years ago, what he thought of the effects of the French Revolution. He replied that it was too early to tell. Some of those dishes you have photographed are on special offer at Waitrose this month. Cheers!

Elaine and Ronnie says: wow its so amazing and colourful and fabulous! Except the food of course……

Georges et Chantal says: Vous êtes chanceux d’avoir pu visiter ainsi le Cambodge. Nous aurions aimé rester plus longtemps dans ce pays. Nous sommes maintenant à Chiang Maï. Nous quitterons la ville dans 2 jours pour rejoindre le nord Laos et la frontière chinoise. Nous espérons de vos Nouvelles, Georges et Chantal

Carole Furnivall says: Great to catch up with you again and enjoy your wonderful photos. I’m with Elaine on the food though – not sure I could do the insect thing, and certainly not the other things! Good to see you both looking so well and relaxed too.
Love, Carole

Simon McIlroy says: What an amazing adventure you are having! Fantastic photos of the temples. And some interesting restaurants. Fried grasshopper-could this be the start of a cookery book on you return. As well as other themes. Best wishes and safe onward journey.

Andrée says: Ouf! Vous avez parcourus beaucoup de route!

Paul Faithfull says: So what’s the route home? The ‘stans’? Russia? Iran? Will you be passing through Uxbridge anytime soon? Take care driving on the right, Paul xx

Lise Beausoleil says: Dear Danielle and Paul, Thank you for sharing those moments with me. Best regards, Lise

 

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