We passed our first three nights in the South Island at Picton exploring the Marlborough Sounds by sea and land. We spent an afternoon on the mail boat which, as its name suggests, delivers mail to remote houses and settlements on the Sounds giving us the chance to meet some of the local residents…
and stop at the Cook monument in a bay that the said Captain visited a number of times on his voyages of discovery.
Also spent a day driving down the shores of Queen Charlotte Sound..
when we stopped at Havelock, which styles itself the mussel capital of New Zealand, for a mussel platter.
Headed south out of Picton via Blenheim to Kaikoura. More seals…
a walk around the Kaikoura peninsula….
a visit to an old whalers’ cottage…
and whale-watching (it’s a sperm whale, I promise!).
On to Christchurch via the thermal pools at Hanmer Springs. The city functions heroically despite the earthquake damage.
Had coffee in a warehouse that doubles as a cafe….
and heard all about the earthquake at a reunion with four ex-team mates from Kaikorai RFC, who I played rugby with >30 years ago, who have since moved from Dunedin to Christchurch.
Also spent a day in Akaroa, a town on a peninsula near Christchurch that was occupied by a group of French émigres shipped there in the 1840’s at a time when France was making a bid to claim the South Island as its territory.
Camped going and returning in a field at Birdling’s Flats near three friendly goats…
and a deserted beach with a fine sunset
From Christchurch we moved on to Lake Tekapo and our first (cloud-covered) views of the southern alps
and then on to Aoraki at the foot of Mount Cook and some spectacular views after the clouds had cleared…..
which were even better from the walking track up to the Mueller Hut.
From the mountains we returned the coast and south to Dunedin; where I worked for a year in 1978/79 immediately after qualifying. Met up with six more of the guys from Kaikorai RFC seniors of that year.
I reacquainted myself with the wonderful Otago Peninsula…
With its shags raising their young…
yellow-eyed penguins nesting in the wooded hills…
and colony of albatrosses….
whose chicks are remarkably tame.
The road through the Catlins took us to Bluff at the southerly tip of the South Island…..
and the west to Lake Manapouri on the edge of Fiordland where we took a boat across the lake…
and across the southern Alps to the remote Doubtful Sound…..
to the Tasman sea.
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It was just short drive to Te Anau and the road to Milford Sound; camping two nights in the national park.
After taking the boat down Milford Sound…
I spent four days walking the Milford track (Danielle opted for the comfy hotel room!).
The track, a route the early settlers cut through the bush to reach west coast, passes through untouched native forest.
It follows the Clinton River upstream..
climbs to cross the McKinnon Pass…
and then follows the Arthur River downstream….
to where it empties into Milford Sound.
In between is some of the most beautiful country…
with mountains…
cascading streams…
waterfalls; including the Sutherland Falls – New Zealand’s highest.
There was the occasional wildlife, which in NZ is mainly birds; including the Kea…
the Weka…
and Bush Robin.
Being Spring, the ferns were putting out new fronds….
and some of the native plants were in bloom.
There were also swimming holes with ice-cold snow-melt water and the occasional bridge to jump off…
(you can tell that is me from the blue shorts!).
We drove from Te Anau to Queenstown on Christmas Day…
and spent some of Boxing day on the beach of Lake Wakatipu.
From Queenstown we crossed the Haast Pass and spent the next ten days or so moving slowly up the west coast between Haast in the south and Karamea (which is about as far as the road goes in the north). Although sparsely populated, this part of NZ is a wonderland and there was much to see and do. Despite, Intensive logging and mining in the early twentieth century….
tracts of native forest have survived; with many walking tracks to allow access.
There are a couple of glaciers in the south (which have seen better days)…
and some stretches of remarkable coastline – especially north of Westport.
The final treat was an area of limestone caves and arches in the Oporara Basin north of Karamea.
Some of the caves contained the bones of extinct moas that had fallen in through sinkholes hundreds or thousands of years ago..
and others housed large cave spiders.
From the west coast, we headed back to Picton, via Nelson, and crossed back to the North Island on the 9th January.
Responses
Sian Goddard says: Beautiful photos . You are getting very artistic Paul, or maybe it’s Danielle’s influence! It certainly makes me want to visit New Zealand. Perhaps you should negotiate a commission with the NZ tourist board!!
Vanessa Cameron says: I love your blog, which Alex forwarded to me after the Christmas Party when I was asking about your progress around the world Glad all is going well – London is dark, cold and windy and in stark contract of your lovely pictures of NZ. Vanessa
Elaine and Ronnie says: That’s a lovely picture of you standing on the cable drum. You should have had a shave first though. Ronnie
Andrée GAgné says: Les photos sont remarquables. J’espère que vous en profitez. J’hâte de voir des photos de kangourous., Andrée et Stéphane
Simon and Susie says: Stunning pictures. Selsdon is beginning to lose its hold on us. I cant quite put my finger on it-I suppose it will come to me.. Merry Xmas, Simon & Susie
Paul says: Fantastic shots Paul. Lovely speaking to you on Christmas Day. Hope we weren’t too rowdy!
Simon & Susie says: Awe inspiring scenery and superb photos. When I heard about the earth tremors in NZ I immediately wondered if you were celebrating your wedding anniversary. You both look extremely well. Happy New Year!!
Sian Goddard says: Spectacular views lucky people. Lots of birds also. Perhaps you are turning into twitchers! Watch out Bill Oddi!! Love to you both. Sian x
Angela Sergeant says: Hello Paul, Sorry I didn’t get to say goodbye in person-just got your blog details and you are both clearly having a wonderful time! Love the pictures and I’m following suit in 4 years time! Just back from South Africa and can’t wait to travel for so much longer! You look very well and what another great adventure…I salute you! All the best, Angela